Day 94
I got
up and made some pancakes before heading out for the day. I started
with a nice forest trail travelling out along a point. I had a habit
of scaring one duck as he moved along a small river and I repeatedly caught
up with him. I eventually moved inland and let it be. Next up
was a longer trail to another point. This time the herons were the
species most affected by my passage. One by one, a group dwindled until
one lone heron remained in the shallows watching me pass. It stayed
there as I passed on my way back as well. The scenery wasn't spectacular
but nice and relaxing (no mountains).
I drove next to Kellys Beach and had a bit of lunch before heading
out on my mountain bike. The park has a great network of trails - most
of which are gravel road beds restricted to cycling. One lone trail
is a converted hiking trail and has some mud and hills and narrow boardwalks
that make cycling challenging. One challenge I didn't expect was one
of my contacts drying out on a long hill and falling out. I managed
to get it back in and continue back to the beach. I looked a bit out
of place at the dairy bar as I used to hose to clean the mud off my arms
and legs but I had fun.
With the day coming to an end, I returned to the campground to finish
cleaning up. I made some hotdogs for dinner and did some computer stuff
for the evening before connecting to the internet for some surfing and email.
I headed to bed with some more Walden soon after.
Day 95
I heard a bit of rain on and off during the morning and kept going
back to sleep until it ended. The morning ended first so I got up and
packed up between showers. My sleeping bag and mattress had gotten
a bit wet (tends to happen when you leave the tent flap partially open) so
I arranged them to dry out in the car during the day. I had some cereal
and was soon off travelling south back into Nova Scotia. I stopped
in Shediac for some gas and DQ and then drove down to see the Confederation
Bridge to PEI. I took a few distance shots and then got up nice and
close for some more pictures. I had noticed a lighthouse nearby so
I hike along the beach to take some pictures there, too.
Having decided a while back to
skip PEI, I drove on and soon arrived in Antigonish. I picked up a
late lunch at McD's and some cash at CIBC and headed back to the Oasis Campground
where I had stayed a few weeks before. I spread out my still-wet tent
and allowed it to dry before setting up. I picked up a few groceries
at the local stores and some ice before returning to have some hot
chocolate.
I was due for some laundry so I headed down and did a load while I
listened to the radio. I did some more reading once it was finished
and then headed to bed. I had a bit of difficulty getting to sleep
which turned out well since I was able to escort an earwig out of my tent
and get a few chapters of Walden out of the way.
Day 96
I got up and had some cereal before packing up and heading back to
Cape Breton. I was soon passing across the Canso Causeway and decided
to stop at the Tourist Centre for some info. With my hands full, I
headed north towards the Highlands. I stopped at a picnic park near
Craigmore to review my collection and then headed through Judique to Port
Hood for some gas. I decided to hit some dirt roads so I headed off
and soon found myself in West Mabou Harbour. I drove around to Mabou
itself and had some lunch. I stopped in at the local CAP site and then
headed back to a campground I had passed in West Mabou Harbour.
After setting up my tent, I decided
to go on a driving tour of the area. I started with the lighthouse
at the mouth of Mabou Harbour and then did a tour of the dirt roads leading
out to Mabou Mines. I found a trailhead showing a series of trails
in the Cape Mabou Highlands so I headed back to Mabou and picked up a trail
map. I returned to my site to review the map and plan my route. I
made some hotdogs for dinner and then headed off to the local community hall
for a ceilidh. I had heard that Buddy MacMaster was in town to play
a few tunes so I settled in for some traditional Cape Breton fiddling.
Buddy was joined by a collection of friends and an up-and-coming fiddler
to provide a great evening of music.
After the ceilidh, I returned to the campground to have some hot chocolate
and do some reading. I again retired with some more Walden.
Day 97
I had heard a few showers overnight but got up with the forecast of
clearing skies ahead of me. I had some breakfast and packed up my knapsack
for a day of hiking in the Cape Mabou Highlands. I drove back to the
trailhead from the previous day and set off on a nice loop hike passing over
a few of the higher points of land. I was just over a half hour
into the hike when a brief shower passed by. I weathered it under a
few trees and continued on. As another shower started, I decided to
hike through it. Unfortunately, it didn't stop and it was soon raining
quite steadily. It only lasted about 20 minutes but was more than enough
to drench me sufficiently. The shower
would continue to wet me through the
rest of the hike as the wind would disturb some of the trees waiting for
my passage. In addition, my boots were moderately wet but were continually
soaked by the ferns and other low-lying vegetation I walked through,
leading to a constant state of squish.
For the hike itself, I reached one peak shortly after the shower ended
and continued through the mist (which would have made a nice picture if I
had brough my film) and over a ridge to the central peak in the area. I
signed the trail book and started the slow descent to a valley. I stopped
a few minutes later and had a bit of lunch and continued down. The
trail descended along the coast and had some nice views as well as considerable
consequences for a missed step. I soon reached a valley and took a
side stroll out to the coast. Back on the main trail, I had one last
hill to climb over to reach the car. As I started my descent of this
hill, the rain returned to ensure that I didn't arrive too dry. Once
back at the car, I quickly packed up and headed back to the campground to
warm up with a nice shower.
Warmed up, I finished my lunch with some raspberries and then caught
up on some computer stuff. I had noticed that the pay phone had a data
port so I needed to have something to upload. After the last shower
had passed, I made up a few hotdogs and then headed back to Mabou for some
more music. The nearby Strathspey Place theatre was the setting for
Ian MacDougall's first solo concert and I quite enjoyed the spirited fiddle
playing. It was a bit more up-tempo than the previous evening's ceilidh but
both were appealing in their own way. In addition to the fiddling,
each of Ian's friends also had the opportunity to showcase their talent with
solos on the piano, guitar and guitar with vocals. After a well
received encore I headed back to the campground.
I brought my computer over to the pay phone and almost fell over when
my Northern Telephone username and password actually worked. I uploaded
my stuff and checked email and then looked for some listings of other music
events in the coming week. I was in bed shortly thereafter and read
a bit more Walden before nodding off.
Day 98: Highlands Ho, Highlands Ho...
The warm sun on my tent prompted me to start my day so I quickly had
some breakfast and packed up my gear. I had read about a tract of land
set aside as an example of a climax forest and headed off into the countryside
to find 
it.
I took a wrong turn out of Mabou but eventually found a sign
for it. I didn't have much luck, though, and soon gave up and headed
over to Lake Ainslie. I circled most of the lake and soon arrived in
Inverness. From there, I took a few scenic roads up to Cheticamp
and then crossed over to Cheticamp Island in search of a lighthouse. I
eventually found it but didn't get a close up view since it was circled by
a fence designed to keep the nearby cows out. I took a picture through
the fence and then headed back to town. I stopped at Tim's for a bit
of lunch and then drove on to the Highlands National Park. I toured
the Visitor's Centre and then drove around to the campground entrance and
registered on site 19.
I set
up my tent and then went back into town for some groceries and gas. Once
back at my site, I reviewed the park's trails but decided to postpone them
for a day. I vegged for most of the afternoon and read most of
The Time Machine, finishing it. Dinnertime soon approached so I made
up some pasta and meat sauce and then drove out to try and catch the sunset.
It had already set when I reached a nearby lookout (summer must be
coming to an end). I returned to my site and listened to the radio for a
bit before heading to bed and finishing Emerson's Waldo.
Day 99
With some nice shade encouraging
me to sleep in, I resisted and got up to do some hiking. I made some
pancakes and then headed off to a nice looking trail along a ridge towards
the ocean. Once I arrived, I discovered that the access road was closed
and the first section of the hike was along the roadway to the actual trailhead.
The trail out along the ridge was nice but very level and maintained.
As I approached the interesting part (where it descends towards the
ocean) I found a series of bored-walks and a "Trail Closed" sign just as
things got interesting. Seems the vegetation has been adversely affected
by the constant use. I took an alternate, more rugged path back to
the trailhead but still had to walk along the road back to the car.
I headed off, being quite certain that the next trail would be much
better. I stopped a few times to enjoy the view and soon arrived at
the outlet of the Corney Brook. The next trail followed the brook back into
the hills for a few kilometres finishing at a waterfall. The trail
was fairly nice but followed an ATV track most of the way. I had a
warning of a moose ahead from someone on the trail but it didn't show its
face (or any other body part) to me. I sat at the falls for a bit and
had a snack before making the return trip to the car.
Back at my site, I strapped on
my helmet and set off for a nearby trail that allowed mountain bikes. The
trail parallels the Cheticamp River and provides access to 4 pools often
used for salmon fly fishing. I headed off along the trail and stopped
to check out the first few pools. As I started up again, I noticed
that my front wheel was a little loose so I inspected the nut to find that
it was well on it's way to falling off. I tightened it and continued
on. The bike path stopped at the third pool but I continued on foot
and checked out the pool and the nearby falls before heading back. My
back tire, not wanting to be left out, decided to spring a serious leak as
I climbed the final hill of the trail so I was left to walk the last bit
of the trail and then through the campground to my site. Not too eager to
fix the flat, I set the bike aside and took a shower.
Somewhat
tired, I took a bit of a nap and then decided to head out early to catch
the sunset. The day was fairly hazy and the sun was starting to fade.
It soon slipped behind some clouds and robbed the many onlookers of
a dramatic show. I returned to my site as darkness approached and made
up some pasta with parmesean sauce. For variety, I added a can of salmon
which didn't really add that much to the dish. Mostly filled, I listened
to the radio for a while and then went to bed.
Day 100
I was
having such a good time in the Park that I decided to stay for a few more
days (it might have something to do with getting the 4th night free...).
I decided to start off with a nearby hike and headed off along the
Robert Brook before turning and hiking up to a nearby peak that provided
an excellent view of Cheticamp. I had a snack while enjoying the view
and then continued down towards the car. I passed a father and son
as well as a discarded moose antler but no wildlife.
I next drove off to see what some of the other areas of the park had
to offer. I started off at Benjies Lake, a rather boring trail out
to a lake. You could easily drown Benjie in it but it wasn't too exciting
otherwise. I drove on and soon found myself overlooking a valley leading
down to the community of Pleasant Bay. I stopped at a few of the the
lookouts along the descent and soon found myself in the town. I decided
to stop in at the Whale Interpretive Centre for a tour and to get the scoop
on the recent marine visitors. I wasn't encouraged (no humpbacks) but
did leave with a bit more info about whales and with a quick peek at my email
when nobody was watching.
I decided
to head over to one of the whale watching outfits and get some more info.
Their board didn't list any humpbacks but lots of pilot whales and
a few others. This outfit also offers a zodiac tour for a few bucks
more but since it would just be to see pilot whales, I wasn't too enthusiastic.
I headed back into the park since it was already getting late and
stopped in at a short bog trail on the way. I also stopped in at one
of the trailheads for the Fishing Cove trail and noticed a cow moose as I
got back on the highway. Once back at my site, I had barely started
to relax when the rain started. It wasn't too bad and I had expected
it and put up my tarp. I set about making dinner as darkness fell and,
although I couldn't tell how well done it was, the steak tasted good.
I moved to the car to listen to some music when there was a flash
of lightning. Hoping for more, I move out to sit under my tarp.
There were just 2 more flashes over the next half hour but the rain
soon started in earnest. It was pouring steadily and I felt a little
sorry for the trio of bikers arriving at its height. I soon noticed
some reflections in the ground and realized my feet were being puddled so
I moved then onto some roots and continued to watch the rain. It subsided
a bit and I moved back to the car to listen to some mp3s. The rain
picked up and waited patiently for a break but it never came so I made a
dash for my tent and tried to leave as much of the water and mud outside
as possible. I soon fell into an uneasy sleep, being constantly concerned
about leaking around my feet.
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